A good rule of thumb is to make sure that the gutters slope toward the downspouts at a rate of one-quarter of an inch for every 10 feet of the gutter. A professional gutter installation company will use a level during installation to ensure that the gutters are sloped. This will ensure that the water drains properly. There's something that doesn't make sense in this story.
No one in their right mind would put the gutters above the drip edge. If they did, the water that fell through the roof would simply hit the side of the gutter and drip between the gutter and the fascia. So either this roofer isn't as good as his reputation suggests, or you misunderstood something he said, or I misunderstood some of what you said. The channel must be mounted on the front side of the fascia, so that its path (which must be inclined towards the drain) is always below the cover of the leaking edge.
The shingles should extend ¾ beyond the top flange of the drip edge; water should flow out of these shingles and fall directly into the gutter. If wind-blown rain or a roof with a very low slope conspire to cause water to recede over the edge of the tile eaves and fall down the side of the drip edge, it should be able to drip down the underside of the eaves and fall into the gutter. There may come a day when men's courage weakens, when we abandon our friends and break all bonds of companionship. Dino, I can finally read an adequate and intelligent answer to this imbecile montage. I just hope that your competent information gets caught on some of the ill-advised posters that appear in the forum.
Keep up the good answers, they make sense. Not daily, but a significant amount over time in a few months. Hube, I agree that NO gutter, whether half round or K-style or box, goes over a leaking edge on the front edge, because, damn, it doesn't work. Hube, there has been a gregarious misunderstanding about the publication of the OP.
What your installer was contemplating was to let the lower lip DE overlap the back of a K-type gutter (as I read it, the results may vary). I'm not messing with you, HUBE, I'm just coming back, as if you enjoyed me. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks I kidnapped the runaway bride, her eyes weren't those of the previous photos. Sphere, I know what you're saying, since the slope of the length of the gutter may come into play.
Too steep and you may be well below the drip edge. The alternative would be to custom-manufacture the drip edge with a longer vertical drip edge. Matter, almost no slope (almost level). For example, a gutter about 60 feet long could, in a sense, be installed almost perfectly level.
It wouldn't overflow even with an outlet, but it would be better to have an outlet at each end. I know that there is a limitation (I forgot the details of the code) to the number of linear troughs that can be placed per outlet, and even if the watering hole had no apparent slope, it would never overflow with the right amount of sockets. Drivers) Over the years, I have installed kilometers of og-type, semicircular, K-type eaves, drip edges, covers, etc., etc., and sometimes these channels have to be installed with very little fall. And if it's a long stretch that crosses a ranch-type wide house, looks better without the big fall.
I apologize for having listened to you, but you have a few more left. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks What I did since I was custom manufacturing was to make the gutter and drip edge as a single assembly built in a workshop. It extends about 6 or 8 inches up to the roof terrace, and from there down there there is solid metal in the water's path to the outer edge of the gutter. This apron is also what connects the gutter to the house.
Under the gutter, the rest of the fascia is also wrapped in copper, which is also part of the workshop assembly. Thanks for the compliments, but, no offense to anyone here, I don't think that placing gutters is rocket science, LOL. I can't imagine what that supposed Forrester roofer has in mind. By the way, we usually use the bottom edge of the standard OTS drip edge (unfortunately, there aren't many customers willing to pay for custom copper).
And there's no way a ditch could slip under that kick. I don't think it's more than an eighth of the plane with respect to the vertical face. Yes, I know about the small curve that kicks out, in my experience, it hasn't been enough to be able to go up and down the ditch, at least not what's being installed around here. Only once I found a good ED with a big, fat lip, was on a tile roof (there aren't many over here).
Personalized DE? Wouldn't that be nice? I would like to receive that treat once. One trick that I've found works with closed edges (and it's still a little difficult) is to not hook the hangers onto the back edge of the gutter, just let them hang slightly inside, then slide the gutter up under the trench and lift the suspension application. To wear it and put it in range, you have to make sure that the screw goes through the back wall of the gutter. That has worked for me a couple of times. Otherwise, it could simply be a matter of visual scale.
Or it could be that the guy in the ditch you're talking to only dies because of a gully of 5.I think I would look for other estimates. Okay, I'm going to bite, although I'll probably excuse myself, Boston Batwanger? If you have to ask, you don't want to know, REMEMBER THE BOSTON BATWANGER. Greencu invented the BatwangerView image A person with no sense of humor about themselves is completely hidden What those other guys said. If you've met an installer who's doing it the other way around, you should probably ask them for the name and address of other customers.
And as you watch, think like a drop of water. The drip moves farther away from the gauze, so that its lower edge hangs above the watering hole. And make sure that your facilities have any slopes. I have seen dozens of houses where the gutters are as level as the fascia. Unless you're the guide dog, the view never changes.
First let me apologize, I used the wrong term. I meant that I wanted to put the gutter on the bottom of the drip against the fascia, not against the ceiling. To clarify, as I understand the result of this discussion, the lower part of the dripping edge should not even touch the fascia, while the channel should be flush with the fascia. Is this correct? As for sheet protectors, we were lucky with a product that I bought in HD. They are 4-foot plastic grid sections that fit the K-shaped gutter. You have to make notches in the units around the splints.
The only problem we've had so far is that maple seeds get trapped to a certain extent, but not so badly. Although I don't recommend any leaf protection system, I have sold and installed the two products you're considering. The one that best fits your situation will depend on several things. I have used similar systems (the predecessors of this product).
One that I installed near my house has been running smoothly for about 10 years. The product is very visible from the floor, the installation is simple, although tedious, and it is not entirely safe. It will work well with a wider variety of debris, but it is much more likely to fly it away or be carried away by bugs or birds will try to build nests under it. Snow and ice are VERY likely to accumulate at the top.
Personally, I would prefer the foam product if it were against adequate dirt. The material mentioned by Dan T. we have also used, in fact it works quite well on short sections of gutters, it doesn't work well, in the long term on longer, sections of 4 feet of gutters. The pieces start to line up with each other, the birds nest under it and, in general, it has all the problems that the water fall system has, but it's much cheaper, sometimes I throw it away for free.
Stephen, what's the brand name of the foam gutter protector you've used?? I've looked at those things and was thinking of trying them out at home in my new copper gutters. I need a product to sell with copper and those ornaments seem horrible to me and they won't work with metal roofs without modifying them. I also saw one that had a semicircular profile, but I can't find the add-on. Wow, I did it again.
I'll probably put them in my own house. I have a mix of copper and aluminum gutters with a mix of semirounds and style K. As I slowly turn everything back to copper, I'll install the foam as I go. First I keep half to decide between the semicircular and the K style.
Stephen, a customer (a president of a condominium association) told me that he had tried the foam product for the gutters. He told me that it contained a lot of water and that in winter it would turn into a lot of ice and the gutters would fall out, but you say you will also keep your gutters more ice-free. I believe you more than him, but do you have any idea what his problem might have been? Thank you, Rich Beckman Another day, another tool. I vote for De in the cunetter, please.
Let's hope the roofer doesn't hit him hard against the fascia, so the guy in the ditch will have the opportunity to put him down there, without committing suicide in the attempt. I think this is what you are looking for, a local roofer (we replace him and do all his gutter installations) here is a dealer, he is very excited about it, I have to wait and see what happens. I'm just worried about it getting clogged with dirt, pollen and pebbles. I hope it works because, I think it's good for copper gutters, you can't see it and, let's be honest, a copper gutter? BeeBeautiful, copper screen? it looks ugly.
In my humble opinion) It's very easy to install in a new installation, it can test your patience in an existing gutter. Thanks for the link. This isn't the brand I've seen before, but I'll definitely check it out, wow, I did it again. I would take a look at one of his previous works if you want to see what water does when it tries to fall from the ceiling.
It goes over the extension of the tile, goes under the tile and goes back uphill until it reaches the trickle, goes down the side of the drip, takes out the small kick and then goes back a little back towards the fascia. On low-sloped roofs, you'll see water recede to the finished fascia and leave marks of debris. I see someone holding the roof covering beyond the fascia about half an inch and then Apply the drip. This keeps the drip away from the fascia.
In older plank-clad ceilings, that was the standard practice. Nowadays, a broken line and an errant circular saw can end up with a negative overhang. Just TRY hanging a pick and splint from a gutter outside of that arrangement. Rich, I used a small part in a Custermers house last fall, no problem.
I used about a mile ago just 2 weeks ago on a house I was repairing (I had put a new roof and gutters on it last year). I've seen a lot of snow and ice on the waterfall style products. One source of the problem with condominium associations could be downspouts. Have you ever seen a lot of open joints in the downspouts? The gutter is thin, melted ice that drips from the hot roof into the gutter, travels downhill to the downspout, and refreezes inside a cold drain? ---The next thing you know is that the gutter is filling up, and now the gutter is freezing? If your roofer has told you that the leaking edge should be between the gutter and the ceiling, you are absolutely WRONG.
The dripping edge should always be in front of the rear edge of the rear spout. Its function is to ensure that rainwater from the roof falls into the gutter and not behind it. I hope your rower doesn't work with grass (with the green side down or up?) We want to see how you get the most out of your workshop. Jobsite Saw PRO has a wider table, a new hole for dust control and a more versatile fence, in addition to the same reliable safety mechanism that is included in all SawStop table saws.
Get advice, offers and expert advice on home construction in your inbox Fine Homebuilding receives a commission on items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Sign up today and save up to 70% Get full access to expert advice, instructional videos, code verification and more, in addition to the printed magazine. Any gutter material that can be purchased at a home remodeling store will not be as strong as that offered by a professional gutter company. Until now, the most logical explanation I received from a couple of contractors (one of them got the job) was that the original gutters were gutters made of wood.
He says he knows that others place the gutter behind the drip, but he has discovered that, in winter, ice can accumulate between the edge of the drip and the gutter and then fall back below the edge of the drip and fall to the roof. Gutter hangers are another important part of your system and refer to the components that connect your gutters to your home. Notice how the channel is attached to these blocks and where the lower edge of the fascia is in relation to the channel. Since the installation of gutters is not one of the most complicated construction projects, sometimes homeowners can take on the task themselves or hire a contractor who does not have the necessary experience to install your gutters.
